Cake Server

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Heisey Glass Orchid Etch 13 Cake or Sandwich Plate Center Handle Server
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Waterford Bridal Cake and Knife Server 2 Piece Set Crystal Stainless New
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$179.90
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MIKASA Crystal Silver Plate  CAKE SERVER 11 half  gc
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Princess House Medium Crystal Cake Server Footed Display Cake Plate 063 USA Made
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FIRE KING ANCHOR HOCKING 8x8 CLEAR CAKE DISH PUNCH TIN SERVER OVENPROOF BAKEWARE
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$225.00
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Cake Server

See More About:    Meat Plate        Rose Garden        Majolica Italian        
Magisso Cake Server Color

A quiet spot in city for Italian fare.

Byline: Bill Clapper

COLUMN: DINING REVIEW

Finding a quiet, unhurried place for a nice, Italian dinner amid
the hyperactive restaurant scene that is Worcester is certainly a
challenge.

But when we wandered into Portobello Restaurant & Bar at the
lower end of Shrewsbury Street we felt that we had met that challenge
and found a peaceful place amid the hub-bub of the city.

There was no need to call ahead. "You don't need a
reservation," said the voice at the other end of the phone the day
before. When we arrived, only one other table was occupied and the bar
patrons (you enter through the bar) were gathered at one end, leaving a
long expanse of mahogany.

Part of the reason for a lack of crowd at Portobello is the parking
situation. The restaurant does not have its own lot and we finally found
a spot down a side street about three blocks away. Luckily, we like to
hike and were prepared with sturdy boots that overcame the accumulated
snow and frozen slush that blanketed the roadway.

Halfway through our meal, our server came up and asked if we had
parked "next door" because a tow truck was hauling cars from
that lot, which belonged to a business that wasn't open late on a
Saturday evening. Not a very welcoming way to treat visitors to the
neighborhood.

When it came time to order, we found the menu fell short in terms
of choices and variety. There were veal, chicken and seafood dishes but
very little in the way of fish (except for haddock), beef (meatballs
perhaps) or vegetarian. Salads did not seem to be a big item and no
desserts were listed.

But it was a quiet place, where we were able to catch up with each
other's lives and carry on a conversation, especially after the
party that shared the dining room left. That is what we wanted on this
particular Saturday night after a hectic work week.

We started out with Vendura Con Portabella, which was sauteed
portabella mushrooms, red peppers and fresh spinach in olive oil
seasoned with herbs and roasted garlic ($10.95). The large portion was
enough for two, and the blending of the garlic, peppers and spinach in
oil made a pleasant
melange
 also me·lange  
n.
A mixture:  building crowned with a mélange of antennae and satellite dishes" 
.

The other appetizers were pretty standard for an Italian-American
restaurant - mussels ($10.95),
bruschetta

Noun

an Italian open sandwich of toasted bread topped with olive oil and tomatoes, olives, etc [Italian]
 ($8.95), caprese ($10.95) and
antipasto ($10.95).

Staying with tradition when selecting the entree, I looked
favorably at the ravioli, of which there were three varieties - cheese
in a
red sauce
 Nutrition Any low-fat, low-calorie tomato-based sauce. Cf White sauce.
 ($13.95), lobster ($22.95) and eggplant ($17.95).
Decisions, decisions. I was drawn to both the lobster and the eggplant
ravioli and couldn't make up my mind. I asked our server if I could
have a mixed plate of the eggplant and lobster and she readily obliged.

Both ravioli were equally delicious. Chunks of lobster meat were
embedded in a ricotta cheese filling while the unique eggplant flavors
came through amid the cheese filling. In all there more than a dozen
ravioli swimming in a thick tomato-basil cream sauce. The sauce itself
was pleasantly seasoned and didn't leave a
gummy

 
aftertaste
 /af·ter·taste/ () a taste continuing after the substance producing it has been removed.


n.
.

When asked, our server informed us that the raviolis, which
appeared and tasted homemade, were not made on site. Portobello has its
ravioli prepared in Providence. In any event, the mixed ravioli dish was
satisfying and filling.

For a week my partner had been craving seafood, and when she saw

mascarpone
  
n.
A fresh soft Italian cheese with a high butterfat content, made from cow's milk enriched with cream.



[Italian, augmentative of dialectal mascarpa, whey cheese.
 ($19.95) on the menu her choice was made.

The dish was a tasteful melding of sauteed shrimp, chicken and sea
scallops over linguine. The fresh shrimp, bite-size chunks of chicken
breast and scallops were tender and full of flavor.

But it was the roasted red pepper in a mascarpone (an Italian
cheese) sauce that made the dish outstanding. The sauce was gently
creamy, much like the sauce that covered the ravioli, and had a subtle
bite to it (probably from the red peppers) that gave it a surprising
zest. The mascarpone would be a contender for Portobello's
signature dish.

Other entree options that drew our attention were: Maine Special,
shrimp, scallops and mussels sauteed with tomatoes and black olives
tossed with linguine pasta in a roasted garlic white wine sauce
($21.95); veal or chicken
saltimbocca

, sauteed meat with
prosciutto
  
n. pl. pro·sciut·ti or pro·sciut·tos
An aged, dry-cured, spiced Italian ham that is usually sliced thin and served without cooking.
,
portabella mushrooms, mozzarella cheese and spinach topped with a
roasted garlic sauce and served with whipped mashed potato (chicken
$16.95, veal $20.95); Sinatra, veal, portabella mushrooms and broccoli,
topped with cream sauce over penne pasta ($19.95); and veal ($19.95) or
chicken ($15.95)
Parmigiana
  
adj.
Made or covered with Parmesan cheese:



[Italian, feminine of parmigiano, of Parma, after Parma, Italy.]
.

Dessert options were limited to ice cream and
gelato
  
n. pl. ge·la·ti
An Italian ice cream or ice.



[Italian, from past participle of gelare, to freeze; see gelatin.]
. No cakes or

tiramisu
  
n.
A dessert of cake infused with a liquid such as coffee or rum, layered with a rich cheese filling, and topped with grated chocolate.
 that night. A lemon tartufo ($6) was heavenly. The creamy
gelato was strongly infused with tart lemon that made the dessert both
refreshing and satisfying. A cup of exquisite espresso finished the meal
nicely.

We were disappointed with the wine selections. There were two
chiantis and two Italian pinot grigios listed on the menu. For an
Italian-American restaurant we expected there would be more choices from
Italy. We chose one of the Chiantis because it didn't seem
appropriate to accompany our ravioli or mascarpone with a Californian or
Australian wine. The Chianti we chose was thin and lackluster in taste
and did not have the robustness we would expect from an Italian red
wine.

Our dinner for two including wine came to $80 before tax and tip,
which seemed to be slightly above what we would expect to pay for a
comparable meal elsewhere.

Portobello Restaurant & Bar

156 Shrewsbury St, Worcester

* * *

Hours: Tuesday through Saturday 4 to 10 p.m.; closed Sunday and
Monday

Phone: (508) 753-9865

Website: www.portobellorestaurant156.com

Credit cards: Visa, MasterCard, Discover.

Prices: Moderate to high.

Parking: On street

Pluses: Owners on premises, family-run operation; friendly and
attentive wait staff; small, cozy dining room; separate bar; no rushing
to turn the tables.

Minuses: No dedicated parking; limited menu choices.

About the Stars

Perfection: * * * *

Very Good: * * *

Good: * *

Below Par: *

Serious Flaws: No stars

Restaurant reviews are the opinions of reviewers based upon at
least one visit to the restaurant. The reviewer is accompanied by at
least one companion. Recommendations from readers about restaurants they
would like to have reviewed are welcome.

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